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Independent Jewelry Designers Translating From Paper To Precious Metal - Forbes

hajenmakeup Mart 22, 2021

Independent Jewelry Designers Translating From Paper To Precious Metal - Forbes

Independent Jewelry Designers Translating From Paper To Precious Metal - Forbes

Posted: 03 Apr 2020 11:47 AM PDT

While much of the country continues to figure out the best apps and programs to meet, share information and do their jobs from home, international independent jewelry designers are immersed in creative expression. They reveal how they turn pencil renderings into refined sketches and eventual into fine jewelry in precious metals and gemstones. Here they talk about some of their favorite designs and new pieces that have just been finished. Some take us through their entire process, while others talk about their influences and how they transform them into final designs.

Emily P. Wheeler/Emily Wheeler

"These earrings are inspired by the petrified forest in Arizona which I visited as a little girl. It was on that trip that I fell in love with jewelry. I sourced a very beautiful and colorful piece of petrified wood from Arizona and bought the pink tourmalines with this design in mind. The earring shape is similar to a pair I'd done before in ebony. We made a few cuts in the wood to find the perfect colors and actually broke the saw at first the stone was so hard! I sketched out the design with the wood and tourmalines to ensure they were laid out the way in which I envisioned them."

Yokabid Worku/ Yoki Collections

"This  piece is  inspired by the beautiful color palettes of a sunset. The ring is set in 18K blackened gold which is highly polished and features round cut blue sapphires, diamonds and Mandarin Garnet. My process consists of seeing something that I want to interpret, sketching it out roughly and then into a more professional sketch, Next, I figure out the colors of the gemstones since so much of my collection is based on color. Then I carve the wax model by hand and tweak it until it is right. I then cast it and set it and put the finished piece next to the original sketches to see how it turned out as compared to my original idea."

Anthony Lent/ Anthony Lent

"For our 18K Green Honey Moonstone Morpheus Cocktail Ring, Morpheus, the god of dreams was the inspiration for the collection and has made appearances since the 1970s. While jewelry often possesses aspirational qualities, this ring is meant to suggest the possibility of wish fulfillment even beyond gold, gemstones, and the diamond. Dreams sometimes come true. My process is a mix of models and unfinished castings mingling together with an eclectic assortment of other physical sketches, mocked up in a mixture of clay, waxes, stones, and various miniature figural elements." 

Ana-Katarina Vinkler-Petrovic/ Ana Katarina

"I believe to love and to be loved is our greatest superpower. Each cameo in this series I created represents a relationship or a deep moment of love in our lives. I designed the line to be collected as keepsakes of these memories and each with a mantra or blessing on the back.  As I relived the experiences in my own life,  the designs became more and more clear. Writing the mantras was also personal as I needed to find few words to express nuanced and deep feelings. Once I finish a sketch, it is sent to our carver and refined for the cameo. Our fourth generation female stone carver proceeds by carving through different layers of agate that results in a relief of the subject. The cameo is sent to our production office in NYC and set into an 18K  gold bezel with a mantra inscribed on the back."

Wendy Yue/Wendy Yue

"The stones, color and balance and how they take shape are the most important aspects of my designs. Often, up until the last minute, I make changes to the design. My process usually starts with a stone that coincides with an inspiration or story that I would like to tell. The sketches then follow. This process normally doesn't take too long given that the concept is already very clear in my mind and most times I know how I want the final outcome to look. I then create a production order, where I detail the stones to be used and where I want them set. The wax mold is then created. I double check it to see the fit, size, durability, design.. Once the stone setting and polishing is done, I get to see the final piece – which is my favorite part - it feels like opening a present! Here I do a final check; I decide whether it needs any changes before I release it."

Arman Sarkisyan/Arman

"When I have the idea for a piece, I start off by drawing an initial sketch. From there, I edit and re-sketch the piece until it slowly transforms into a beautiful design. After that, I hand make a wax model and cast the piece when I decide on the metal I want to make it in. Once the piece is cast, I polish it, set the stones, and add more intricate details like etching or hammering by hand." 

Nam Cho/Nam Cho

"I generally start to design by sketching by hand. My initial designs are usually very rough and shapeless. Then I transform the rough sketch into a tighter black and white sketch on Illustrator before starting the CAD. From the rough sketch to approving the CAD, I spend about a minimum of three months per design for each design, and could spend up to six months to one year for a larger more complicated piece. I go through a very lengthy and intense process to get everything right before producing an actual piece of jewelry."

Nicole Carosella-co-owner and co-designer of Sorellina

"The vibe when designing these earrings was 'mod meets modern', and the combination of the vibrant chrysoprase and rich emerald is even more striking in person. Nothing is more rewarding than seeing a sketch come to life and having it exceed your expectations." : 

Lauren Harwell Godfrey/Harwell Godfrey

"I tend to be very specific with my drawings. For this design, this sketch became the final piece after many conversations about the details with my production team. I rejected the first sample because I wasn't happy with the back - it was solid and I wanted a gallery. Another detail that came later is the pyramid stud bail, which I am really happy with. This pieces is new and has come after a lot of work before it. I'm now in a place with the people who physically make these pieces where they have a greater understanding of my vision and what I am looking to create."

Stephanie Abramow and Mollie Good/ Walters Faith

"We found these beautiful emerald cut morganite stones and wanted to create a one of a kind suite of jewelry. For our one of a kind pieces, we don't use CADs, we much prefer pencil and paper. We start with a sketch, and once the design has been completed it goes to the jeweler who makes a handmade wax model, which is then cast in sterling silver to confirm the scale, comfort and mechanics. Wearability is a priority when we design. Upon the approval of the sterling silver model for this design, we cast in 18K rose gold and set the morganite stones with surrounding champagne diamonds. The result is a beautiful, golden-hued set that compliments all skin tones."

Graziela Kaufman/ Graziela

"The process of designing starts with an inspiration. The whole tribal collection was inspired by Brazil and the Amazon Indians. I found a picture of an amazing headdress and I immediately fell in love with the strength and power of its meaning. They are worn by the respected leaders of a tribe and have to earn and be powerful and brave enough to wear one."

Once the first sketch is made and perfected like the first picture, I send the drawing to my designing partner who makes the computer drawing with dimensions. While she's doing the computer work, I look for the gemstones for the earrings and have a meeting with my jeweler to explain small details and the mechanism of the piece so he can execute the project."

Kimberly McDonald/Kimberly McDonald

"I am influenced by the shapes, gems and colors evocative of my favorite natural materials like opal, agate and geodes into the spectacularly detailed piece that picks up the motifs of my custom design carpets. My process truly is organic; I don't sit down with any specific preconceived notion of what I'm going to design. Sometimes it's just a concept or a feeling I want to convey. In fact, when I try to put a plan into place ahead of time as to what I will be creating, it's very difficult for me. The stones more or less speak to me and as I start to line them up it just sort of falls into place. For my  signature geode and diamond 18K yellow gold cuff, my goal was to create what I see when I'm working, which is a literal cobblestone of beautiful sparkly micro-geodes."

Fernando Jorge 

"The process behind these earrings was relatively straightforward. My initial idea was to have a fresh version of the classic sideways hoops as part of my 'High Brilliant' collection, with substantial brilliant cut diamonds yet visually and physically light. I started with quite a few rough sketches, playing with proportions and exploring different solutions. After I identified the idea that I liked best, I moved on to selecting the diamonds and then producing a detailed hand drawing, defining the proportions and technical details. The next stage was developing a digital model in which we can experiment and perfect small variations such as the size of the prongs, the spacing between stones and the thickness of the wire structure. This helped me to ensure everything was perfectly balanced. We have small 3D printers in our studio and usually print a resin prototype of the digital model, which is extremely helpful as you get to see the actual shape and scale. Then we forward the 3D design and stones to our manufacturers in Italy. Seeing the design come to life is the ultimate reward, so we never miss a chance to follow every step; if not possible in person, then over photos or videos!"

Nancy Newberg 

"As I design a new piece of jewelry to add to my collection I like to think about who will wear it and how it will be worn. I work things out on paper and to get a sense of how it will all lay out. Lately  I have been experimenting with a variety of diamond shapes and clustering them together to create linear patterns. I love how these earrings turned out! They are really easy to wear any time and would be a great bridal earring too. Lots of options for lots of women."

Jacquie Aiche

"My process from design to creation feels so personal. It really is based on intuition. As I design, I think of how I want the adornment to make women feel. I have an incredible collection of gemstones that I've gathered throughout the years. Once I've sketched out my vision, it's about finding the stones that best enhance the intention of the piece. I spend time exploring what I'm drawn to and how the crystals feel when blended together. I was attracted to offering a variety of amulets with stones with properties that complement the type of guidance one may be seeking. We have clear quartz is for healing, rose quartz for love, opal for spiritual connection, lapis for inner-truth and onyx for protection. It's so much more than meets the eye.Each piece is a talisman of energy to give my tribe whatever they need."

Robinson Pelham

"The ring holds a fine oval rubellite set East West. The ring was inspired by the heat of the stone, reminiscent of thermal heat and geodes. I wanted to get the textures and details of the tactile elements just right so I sketched everything out.  The crevasses that run down each side of the ring, set with diamonds inside them, represent the cracking open of a geode. The use of a crocodile skin effect on the outside of the ring carries on the theme of the natural textures and tactility of the ring and the outline shape holds the familiarity of a natural prismatic crystal." When it all was finished I cast it in 18K yellow gold and set the rubellite."
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